Pula is a port city with a Roman amphitheater that is larger than the town around it would suggest. You can see the highlights in a day, provided you follow the right order and don't plan the afternoon in full sun.
Start at the arena
The amphitheater stands at the edge of the center and is almost as impressive from the outside as from within: the outer wall stands intact along its full height, which is rare for Roman arenas. Go early. Not just because of the crowds, but because there is barely any shade inside.
The forum and the Temple of Augustus
From the arena, it's a fifteen-minute walk to the forum, the old marketplace that remains the heart of the city. At the far end stands the Temple of Augustus, small and bright, and next to it the town hall that was built against it in the Middle Ages. The terraces on the square are a good spot for your first break.
Through the old town uphill
The streets between the forum and the hill gradually climb towards the castle, with views over the harbor. On the way you pass the Arch of the Sergii, a Roman triumphal arch that nowadays stands in the middle of a shopping street. This contrast is typical of Pula: the ancient is not set apart in a park here, it simply stands among the buildings.
Where you can escape the sun
Beneath the city lies a system of tunnels from World War I, built as shelters. They are cool, short and a relief on a hot afternoon — even with children who have had enough of the heat.
Where to stay
Villa Karla
When to go
Outside July and August, a full day is more than enough and you'll have much of the city to yourself. In high season, it's worth starting early and being indoors or underground by midday.
